Day 10: Felindre - Bwlch y Sarnau
Updated: Mar 24, 2024
Has the day gone well if it ends with your food all over the floor?
Day 10 - Felindre - Bwlch y Sarnau: 37.08km / 985m elevation / 7 hours 2mins walking / 3,691 kcal burned)
Invigorated from a good nights sleep indoors on a camping bed - a luxury when camping during winter in Wales, I began the day early with a coffee heated from my MSR Pocket Rocket whilst I let my remaining electronic items charge.
Today was the last day of the walk where I was due to carry my FORCLAZ
Men's Trekking 70 L - MT100 EASYFIT Backpack which weighed over 20kg. I felt energised and was keen to push on as soon as possible, so it was the first morning where I didn't opt to shower when the opportunity was there. I was in for a long day of walking, which turned out to be the second longest so far.
The initial leg of the journey encompassed a 15.5 mile hike leading to Abberycwmhir. My plan included a pit stop at the Llanbadarn Fynydd Community Shop to take a breather and break up the day. The first couple of hours passed swiftly, albeit not covering significant ground. My focus during this time was primarily on arranging accommodations for my support team, who were en route from the Vale of Glamorgan to join me for the final two days of the hike. Much of the morning was spent ascending through farmland and grassy ridges while temporarily assuming the job of a shepherd with the picturesque sight of hawthorn trees lining the path.
Three hours after departing from Brandy House Farm, I arrived at the first pitstop. Upon entering the Llanbadarn Fynydd Community Shop, I was warmly welcomed by a shopkeeper brimming with enthusiasm. She shared with me her and her husband's endeavour of embarking on the Glyndŵr's Way in incremental stages, aiming to complete it by summer. Following a brief exchange of tales over coffee and a sausage roll, I reminded myself of the nearly 18 miles that still lay ahead and resumed my journey.
The views before arriving at Abbeycwmhir were some of the best of the 10 days so far. Crossing high open moorland at about 500m, with the sun blaring down and clear views, I could seeright across to the distant view of peaks in the Bannau Brecheiniog National Park, the Brecon Beacons. I would consider Bannau my 'home' when walking, only 45mins away from my home, they're the mountains I've spent the last 5 years regularly exploring, so seeing them gave me great comfort. Eventually dropping to the riverside, I made my way to the ruins of Abbeycwmhir.
History of Abbeycwmhir
The small village of Abbeycwmhir was once the site of the largest abbey in Wales. The site of the current ruins of the abbey dates back to 1176. The Motimer family and King John had significant interest in the site due to it's opportunities for commercial plantations. It is said Llywelyn ap Gruffydd's body is buried somewhere on the site following its removal from the grisly display in London. Llywelyn the Great is known to be the last native prince of Wales, and was defeated in battle by Edward I.
The final stretch proved to be a test of endurance as I trudged through muddy forest trails en route to Bwlch-y-Sarnau. Ascending Upper Esgair Hill and traversing a field, fatigue set in, and I yearned to be at the campsite. However, in my tired-state, I overlooked a small gate to my right, resulting in an additional 15 minutes of walking. Though seemingly insignificant, after covering nearly 18 miles, it was a frustrating setback. Frustration peaked, and I couldn't help but release a small exclamation, which unfortunately attracted the attention of an agitated farm dog. The dog's persistent growling made passing through the gate challenging, prompting me to detour around, adding more steps to my journey. Eventually, I reached Bwlch-y-Sarnau, relieved to have overcome the obstacles of the last leg.
With more frustrations to come, I now couldn't find my campsite realising that while fatigued, I put in the wrong postcode and was still 2 miles away from my final destination. Walking along the road for another hour, I did though eventually make it. My final day carrying my heavy bag had ended.
Setting up camp in the kitchen of the bunkhouse, with thanks to the kind owners of Woodhouse Farm and Mid Wales Bunkhouse, I began to cook a large pot of rice and noodles - which doesn't taste as bad as it sounds. While I was showering, the weather was turning and a strong burst of wind caught the underside of the pot and tipped the food all over the floor, which epitomised the last few hours of the day.
I had a disrupted sleep as I opted to spend the evening sleeping on the hard floor in the kitchen. This still felt like the better option than being in my tent where it was be -5°C with heavy rain battering the outside world.
Oh Cariad! Sad times x x x